Various examples of enamel jewellery
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A Brief History of Enamelling

(right)The earliest known enamel objects from anywhere in the World were found in a tomb at Kouklia in Cyprus in 1952. Six rings including the cloisonné (1) example pictured on the right were developed by refugee Mycenean craftsmen who emigrated to Cyprus to escape the troubled mainland. It is thought that these craftsmen developed enamelling initially on copper as it was mined on the island. This example is believed to have been made in the 13th century B.C. 

mycenean ring
septre2
(left) In another tomb at Kourion in Cyprus an 11th century B.C. sceptre was discovered, it also has cloisonné (1) enamel on the handle. These objects indicate that the technique of cloisonné enamelling was invented during the 13th century in Cyprus.

When Caesars conquest of Britain began in c. AD43, he would have found that the Celts were already using red and blue enamels in the champleve (2) technique although this would have been one of the last things on his mind at that time.
(right The Battersea Shield is a 1st century shield of bronze with red enamel.
shield
sutton hoo
The example of cloisonné above was excavated at Sutton Hoo in Suffolk and dates at c. AD700. They are shoulder pins believed to be from the robes of Redwald king of the East Angles an overlord of the Anglo-Saxon kingdoms.
royal gold cup
(left) France became without a doubt the centre of excellence regarding enamelling at c. AD1350. The Royal Gold Cup on the left is a masterpiece of French Gothic Art that was originally made for Charles V of France. It is one of the best examples of durability and longevity of enamels. Plique a jour (3) was also developed at around this time, as the earliest piece has been dated in the 13th century.
China seemed to be late in developing enamelling and it is thought that it was learnt from middle eastern travellers in around the 15th century or slightly earlier. The Japanese being a very closed society in those times did not develop enamels until the 1800s but the beauty of their intricate work is second to none.
(right)> From the mid 15th century onwards gold leaf and enamel paints were fixed to glass using gum Arabic and enamelling techniques were gaining in complexity.

The beautiful glass cup on the right from the 15th century shows just how the techniques could be applied. It has a simplicity and brightness of form giving it a timeless and contemporary feel.

Art and design started to become more realistic and less naive with en grisaille (4) cameo type enamel for figures and portraits. Limoges in France was the dominant centre of enamelling until 1600.

fairfax cup
ring (left) The mogul ring dating around 1620 has fine enamelling on the inside, which would protect it from heavy wear. The outside has wonderful uncut rubies and emeralds embedded into gold.
(right) This English 18th century box is one of the finest examples I could find from that period and many were made. Techniques were perfected and the colours are bright and lustrous. Most boxes were enamelled on copper and were completely covered inside and out.
enamel box
enamel painted sisters (left) This pair of enamels of the Gunning sisters really sums up the detail to which the craftsmen would work to ensure a good likeness in the mid 18th century.
(right) One of the most common uses for enamelling was for clock and watch faces and outer casings. The example on the right is fairly typical of the 19th century although this use on timepieces started earlier.
enamel clock
lalique brooch (left)Lalique had to be one of the most inspiring and inspirational of artist's craftsmen in the art nouveau period of the early 1900s. His moulded and carved glass was beautiful but he used everything precious at his disposal to create pieces of jewellery such as the one opposite. The enamelled wings combine so well with gold, precious and semi-precious stones.
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link to Atelier Ava jewellery An introduction to enamel jewellery and its elements